Monday, May 24, 2010

Iron Buddhas 10

 - 10 -


"WHERE TO now?" Steffi asks Burt over the phone.
    "Down th' Umpqua an' head south to th' Bay. BLM. Nobody likes BLM, but it's what's open this year; too much snow at elevations. We'll have two crews in camp, Face and Wildcats. Stop by Central and get a map."
    Steffi is running late. She's got to hit Central before five, get her groceries, drive half the night, and find camp in the dark, maybe around midnight, in the mountains of the southern coast.
    She turns to Dan. "Can I get a couple of y'all Omegas to help me get Little Bird into th' back of the Ritz?"

:::

It's a long way down the mighty Umpqua at night. The droning of Ritzy's engine nearly knocks Steffi out, which she would purely hate to have happen, as drowning is not her preferred way to go down.
    Shifting gears in sleepy Reedsport, she hangs left and follows the white line, around curves, past mysterious black lakes, and, briefly, along the dark Pacific.
    Uh-oh, blue lights.
    "What's the matter, officer?"
    "Interesting rig you have there. I hate to bother you, Miss, but there's a taillight out."
    "Oh-h-h, thanks, I would have never known."
    He's got his little book out, writing a ticket in the light from his headlamps, when his car radio comes to life. It's for him.
    "Oops, gotta go. But you stop first place you can, get that light fixed."
    "Yessir." Steffi mounts up, heads south again. A close one; on her present budget she's not sure she can get a light bulb for Ritzy, let alone sustain a ticket. All the money in her world is tied up in a motorcycle and a fancy chainsaw. Any more money is waiting somewhere in the darkness ahead.
    Ah, here we are, a left, a left, a right onto dirt, ten miles, and a right.
    She doesn't see a second right. Ritzy is lugging a little; shift down. Still lugging, shift down. Shift down again. This is a really beat-up road; log trucks are clearly running a 'show' somewhere up ahead, when there's daylight. Camp is on a dead-end road with no logging; she's missed her turn.
    Steffi pulls onto a wide-out and climbs down from the cab. Oh, finally a little bit of moon. Not that it helps much in the heavy cloud cover. A little light rain softens her eyebrows as she looks down over the precipice.
    Oh, that's gotta be camp. Kerosene glow in a small creek valley. She's gone up the mountain by mistake. Ah, well. Hop in, find the logging show, turn around on the landing. Steffi fires up the engine, pulls back into the road ...
    ... and the engine dies.
    Right away she knows, and sets the emergency brake, cursing.
    Gas! She's forgotten to fill up the truck and the spare cans in Eugene again. And out of saw-gas too, this time. Stupid, stupid, stupid!
    Could drag out Little Bird and go get a can filled. But Little Bird is heavy and the road is steep. Could walk out with a can, borrow a gallon and come back. But it might be a ten mile round trip or more; the loggers are going to want this road in about five hours. She can't be sure of getting back in time, even if she can rouse somebody for a lift.
    And loggers hate hippie house trucks, especially the ones with jade trees in those windows with the little yellow checkered curtains.
    Hmm.
    Steffi swings open the driver-side door and climbs down onto the wide running board. She reaches for the grab bar on the side of the cab and sticks one leg experimentally into the cab. Foot on brake.
    Possible.
    Steffi climbs down onto the gravel, crunches round to the back doors, lets herself in -- an athletic achievement in itself -- retrieves a flashlight, tapes it to the side of the steel girder supporting the house, and switches it on. Not much of a "head" lamp but she can see the road, sort of, and the drop-off, sort of, and the cut bank, sort of.
    Sigh.
    At one mile an hour, foot on brake, other foot on running board, eyes straining back along the cedar shakes of the house, Steffi backs down the mountain, steering round the curves heart in mouth the whole way.
    It's not until she makes it all the way down into the swamplands and, by golly, finds the turnoff to camp that she remembers.
    Gas-line tubing. She could have siphoned off Little Bird's gas tank and been on her merry way.
    It's almost dawn as Ritzy pulls into a suitable campsite, right next to Little Butch's big black Harley.
    Part of Steffi wants to go to the yurt, wake everybody up and tell them her amazing adventure.
    Better not.
    Aside from they need their sleep, they could all tell even more amazing adventures of their own.
    That's the way of it in the Hoedags. Better she should just fire up the Airtight and, later, see if they want some breakfast.

:::

The BLM suspectors are more difficult and distant that Steffi's used to from the 'Circus' and seem to go out of their way to add to the unpleasantness of the local climate and dangerous terrain. Day after day in the glutinous rain, morale falls.
    Chuck watches the dispirited crew thunking away at the soggy duff with their tools, seemingly unable to earn any other inspection rating than eighty-nine percent, no matter how many extra 'insurance' trees they put in. He watches the inspection plots closely and argues every tree. He worries himself hoarse and is driven to his bed in the back of his pickup.
    Burt takes over, but burns out within days. Juneen would give it a go, but the crew feeling is that an alpha male is the only crew rep the BLM will halfway respect.
    Isaiah, a family man, is not in camp this month, so options appear limited.
    Little Butch volunteers.
    "You're, pardon us, not what they'd see as an alpha male," responds Amy.
    "Ouch," grins Little Butch. "But I'm, y'know, devious. Might be good for something." He's twirling and polishing a brass cup -- a craft he'd  picked up somewhere.
    Next day, he's standing on a stump in his underwear, with his camera in his hands. His dreadlocks are ruffling in the stiff morning breeze.
    The suspectors roll their eyes but they get on with their work of finding enough wrong with the quality of the crew's efforts to bring down the contract price ten percent.
    One of them's digging a hole next to a tree, in preparation for tracing out the position of its roots with a pencil.
    There's some annoying clicking going on.
    He turns to find Little Butch right behind him with the big camera.
    "What are you doing?"
    "I'm making a documentary. It's for the American Geographic."
    "Wait, wait, you can't take pictures of me."
    "Too bad, you'd look great in the article, just the kind of man we want representing the United States Government. But don't worry, I haven't shot you, just your hands and that pencil."
    "Get out of here."
    "Sorry, can't, I'm the crew rep, page two, second paragraph."
    After a few hours of documentation by the half-naked madman, the suspectors retreat to their white pickup and make frantic radio calls.
    Higher-ups show up. They visit the site and talk with with Little Butch.
    A call is placed to the American Geographic. Turns out, unbeknownst even to the crew, Little Butch is legit. He has some kind of deal with them, very recently negotiated.
    Things loosen up a little bit.

:::

Despite the improved relationship with the district, the work is still difficult. The biggest unit of the the contract, a mere sixty-two acres, seems to go on forever. There's no access to part of it except down a vertical sandstone rock face with a little waterfall. Chuck, who's recovered, reconnoiters and recommends the whole section be planted in one day, by having volunteers climb in via the chimney, then bag up from tree sacks brought down  from above. The idea is unanimously adopted.
    Steffi is not a great climber but ends up on the delivery crew. She's wedged in by her knees, with the little waterfall pouring down the back of her rain jacket and soaking into her boots, reaching up for one proffered tree sack after another and easing them down to Murray, who is right beneath her.
    There are four workers in the chimney. As Steffi releases the last sack into Murray's hands, she hears the dreaded warning cry from somewhere above: "rock!"
    Steffi tilts back her head in an effort to see what, if anything, might be coming their way. Those above her crowd themselves back into the chimney, spraying runoff into the air.
    The rock has been rolling, relatively slowly, down the ravine above and has pinballed itself into the chimney before anyone can try to stop it. Water is in Steffi's eyes, but the rock looks sufficiently large to her to be a threat -- maybe even volleyball-sized. If it misses the two crewmembers above, it may hit her. If it misses her, it will certainly hit Murray, and by that time it will have taken up enough gravity to hit like a cannonball.
    It's going to pass by her.
    Really, really close.
    Without any conscious thought, Steffi reaches up, palms the rock with both hands, collapses her elbows to her side, and shoves the missile somehow. It tumbles past Murray and crashes into piled slash fifty feet below him.
    Everyone has frozen, a tableau of stacked treeplanters. They're told later they looked just like a bug-eyed totem pole.
    That night, Steffi pulls off her shirt and tee and discovers a bruise from bra strap to bra strap, right across below her collarbones.

:::

The "sixty-two"  continues to bedevil the crew. Another section can only be approached -- dry-shod -- by means of a debarked and green-slimed log thrown across a winter -swollen creek, some ten feet above the water.  The loggers' choker setters had apparently used this route, as they have left a rusted cable strung across from tree to tree, as a kind of hand rail for the log.
    Steffi is not much into high-wire acts, but everyone else seems unconcerned. They troop across, do a morning's work, troop back, eat lunch, bag up again, and troop across, disappearing into the heavy slash with aplomb. To cover for her trepidation, Steffi is the slowest at bagging up her trees, so that she can inch across the log alone. With the caulk boots, it would seem to be no big deal -- they provide excellent traction on slick wood, and on the slopes Steffi is, like the others, half monkey. But a ten-foot drop seems to put things in a different light for her.
    After the day's done, she walks back to the bridge alone, puts on her caulks, and practices. Back and forth, back and forth, with and without holding on to the cable.
    This isn't so bad. Maybe I'm getting over it.
    She turns around to go back. The caulks strip out of the log, Steffi bounces once, and plops into the icy pool.
    Okay, it's that bad.

:::

    The next day, the crew bags up, crosses the log, and goes to work. Steffi dallies yet again with her bag-up and starts inching across yet again.
    Something in the water catches her eye.
    She's not really anxious to look down, but she tugs the cable toward her and leans out a bit, which stops the cable's wobble enough for her to feel secure. She investigates.
    Fish.
    Really big fish. Lots of them.
    Steffi has not seen spawning salmon before. She's amazed, mystified and humbled by this display, and almost forgets to go to work.
    Others have seen the fish too. Conversations all across the slopes are about size, numbers, colors, and the wonders of migration. By day's end, almost all the men have buck fever.
    It's the end of the dreaded sixty-two and good riddance. The suspectors have relented and it will pay one hundred percent. Face Crew feels like celebrating. They count their leftover trees into a tree sack, help the suspectors load it into their truck, wave goodbye to them, stand around a bit in case the suspectors forgot anything and come back.
    Coast clear.
    The men, as one, slip out of their caulks, roll up their stagged-off jeans, wade into the pool beneath the log bridge and stand there with dozens of giant fish milling around their feet.
    "Whaddya think?" asks one.
    "Hard to get hold of," says another.
    "We oughta at least try," says another.
    Murray leaps on a salmon, which splashes away upstream beyond the riffle.
    Amy, standing on the bank with Steffi, cheers the fish on.
    "Whose side are ya on?" asks Burt, who has just repeated Murray's performance.
    "Well, y'know, those salmon have come a long way. Maybe we ought to not bug them."
    Willard comes down the bank, trousers rolled, hoedag in hand. "That one was-was-was too fresh, M-Murray. Yours t-t-too, Burt. Ya wanta, wanta get one with, with white s-s-spots, p-p-patches, all s-s-spawned out."
    "You know so much, pick one and get 'im," says Murray.
    Little Butch, also on the bank, snaps Murray's picture. Murray makes an obscene gesture.
    Willard watches the water and the thrashing men awhile, then suddenly leaps into the riffle as a white-shouldered salmon struggles by. He raises the dag. Just as he does so, Murray arrives behind him, chasing the fish. There's an audible thump and as the dag comes around and down onto the hapless salmon, Murray drops to his knees, hands on his head.
    Blood can be seen running down the riffle toward the pool, and not all of it belongs to the fish. All the witnesses fall silent.
    Murray is the first to speak. "Ohh. Ohh-h-h. Ohh! Did ya get 'im?"
    Willard, who doesn't even know yet of Murray's mishap, bounds up the creek bank with a flopping salmon by the gills in one hand and his hoedag in the other. Either one is about as long. "C-Coho," he says, proudly.
    Little Butch snaps its picture. In the creek, men are making their way to Murray to help him up.
    Amy has turned her head; she's looking down the road. "Truck comin'."
    Everyone springs into action. The remaining crew members in the creek seemingly levitate onto the roadside. Burt takes the fish from Willard and stuffs it, almost doubled, into Steffi's tree bag, which she's still wearing. He turns her to face toward the road. He and Chuck line up to her right; Willard and Amy do the same on her left.
    The truck arrives, slows down, and stops. Sure enough, it's the Fish and Game.
    Window rolls down. Gray beard juts out."Hey, kids. Been tree planting, huh?"
    "You bet," replies Burt.
    The fish seems to come awake in Steffi's tree bag, and starts flapping frantically. Chuck has a coughing fit.
    The Fish and Game's shotgun is turning over pages in a Tatum clipboard. "We're surveying the anadromous fish runs. Seen any fish in this creek?"
    "Oh, y-yeah!" says Willard. "They're running!"
    The fish lunges, throwing Steffi a little off balance. Amy bumps shoulders with her to keep her upright.
    "You didn't by any chance see what kind they were?"
    "Oh, th-they're c-cohos 'n s-s-steelheads, maybe about thirty of each in th' pool here. Some are, are already spawned out."
    Flap-flap-flap. Chuck's coughing again. Little Butch takes the Fish and Game truck's picture.
    "Gee, thanks! This is good to hear. Well, good luck with your job!"
    "You bet; you too," waves Burt.
    Fish and Game drives off.
    There's a collective sigh of relief.
    Murray, who is holding his scalp together with his tree hand, looks into Steffi's bag. The fish has finally agreed to expire.
    "Salmon steaks tonight!" announces Murray.




(To be continued)

Tuesday, May 4, 2010

Iron Buddhas 9

 - 9 -


STEFFI NEEDS a place to park Ritzy over the summer, and Dan knows just the spot.
    "Downstream from here, about five miles, there's an abandoned quarry. It was licensed for gravel, but the rock is rotten -- weathers into sand too fast -- and they gave up on it; nobody goes there, not even the BLM, which owns it. Right on a bend in Greenwood Creek, next to the apple orchard. You can get in from either upstream or down, and there's even room to turn that thing around in there. Just drive right in over the baby alders in the driveway, and they'll spring back and it's like you were never there."
    She tries it, and it's all good. Parking at the south end of the landing, at the end of the old dump-truck turn-around, she's got plenty of shade for hot weather. The prevailing wind draws smoke from her chimney up and over the ridge, so she's not likely to attract undue attention. Time and space to read Three Pillars, watch sunsets, and think.
    But there's not enough groceries for the summer. Steffi hikes out, thumbs her way to Omega Farm, and pulls weeds with Dan for a bit. She's got a little money from the Idaho job; enough to expand her horizons a bit.
    "Does anyone have a motorbike for sale around here? Not an Electro-Glide or anything like Little Butch has. I'm afraid I'd drop it just trying to go over a curb or something."
    'Well up at White Star they have one, I think; something Japanese. Clunky. But we have a good mechanic here. Could maybe get you on the road cheap."
    Steffi checks this out and within a week she's the proud owner of a moderately unattractive  orange-and-black Yamaha three-fifty with high pipes and a rusted sissy bar, complete with helmet, a greasy cloth bag of Volkswagen tools, and spare tubing for the gas line. It's been awhile since she's driven a bike, which was a Honda ninety in Enterprise, Alabama, all of once, and the Yamaha looks like a lot of bike to her.
    Dan trains her on it. Shifter, throttle, brake, lights, gauges. How to watch for traffic, potholes, dogs, and railroad tracks.
    Licensing? Insurance? Hey, she's young and foolish. She calls the bike Little Bird, hops on and putts off to the quarry.
    Every two weeks Steffi puts on her jacket, gloves, and helmet and cranks up Little Bird to  head for Eugene, eighty miles from the quarry. She has a five-gallon bucket strapped to the sissy bar, and that's where the potatoes, rice and canned goods will ride. The curves are tight along the river canyon, the highway is narrow and bumpy, and the traffic unforgiving. It's a good education.
    One of these trips is made late in the evening. On the way back out of town she spots a drive-in theater with a movie running. It's been awhile since Steffi has seen a movie, so she pulls into a suburban side street with a view, parks between two cars, sets the bucket down beside the bike and leans back into the sissy bar with her feet up on the handlebars.
    She can't make heads or tails of the flick. Not just because, for her, there's no sound track. It seems to be about a plump subteen who's in some kind of row with her family, and there's a priest who keeps waving a hand-held crucifix at her and she throws up an awful lot. Pretty soon the kid's head is spinning on her shoulders. Ugh.
    Whatever the world is up to, outside of Greenwood Creek and the Hoedags, Steffi decidesshe's not up for it. After awhile she puts the groceries back on the sissy bars and motors off into the night.
 
:::

A walk along the creek in the morning convinces Steffi there are possibilities for supplementing the potatoes and rice. What are called "creeks" here would be serious rivers anywhere else, and the driftwood piled high in trees on the bends serves as a testimony to what can happen when the whole Pacific Ocean rains on your parade.
    Among the pools and riffles there are what look, to her, like dwarf lobsters, crawling every which way. Steffi is not much into shellfish, but she's thinking that where these are, there may be trout.
    Back at the Ritz, she digs out an old and heavy baitcasting rig she'd pilfered from her dad. It's rigged for "bream," very lightweight line, small hook, one split shot. She's not too sure of the antique lures in the kit that came with the rod and reel, and it hasn't rained in months, so she's not likely to find worms.
    Oh, hey! The lobsters! But they have those big claws. Folks around here must know how to catch them, but Steffi has no one to ask at the moment, so she grabs the log tongs from underneath the Airtight and heads down to the creek.
    There's one of the little dickenses right there. After snapping at him fruitlessly for two or three minutes, staggering around on the smooth stones in the riffle, Steffi corners the little guy -- girl? -- by a willow root and picks him up. He spreads his claws and plays castanets, which throws Streffi for a moment and she goes over backwards into the water.
    Cold.
    Where Steffi grew up, water is warm at this time of the year. This stuff takes one's breath away. Might as well be in a winter flood in the Olympics.
    The tongs are empty now, so Steffi stands up, water draining from her hair, shirt, and jeans, shivering. She looks for a sunny spot to stand in, pulls herself together, and repeats the hunt.
    Got one! She dismantles it, draws a section of fresh crawdad onto the hook, flings the bait into the pool downstream from the riffle, and in seconds is playing a tiny trout over to the bank.
    Gonna have protein all summer.

:::

Fish and potatoes every morning will last until the rains come. But a little more money before fall would not be a bad thing to have; a cushion. In case Ritzy ends up needing a third engine, say.
    Steffi places a call to Hoedag Central.
    She catches someone in, which is lucky in August. "Yeah," the guy says, "not much goin' on right now. There is some precommercial thinning. Near Alderton, too, and they're short-handed. Not much money in it, they never pay good out your way. But that's what there is. Got a saw?"
    Steffi shows up on the landing riding Little Bird, in her blue hard hat and caulks, with saw, gas, oil, lunch, and water in the bucket.
    The crew leader, a tall, humorless but gentle man called, appropriately enough, Slim, shakes his head. "No scrench? No round file? No laundry soap bottles to hang yer liquids on yer belt? An' that McYellow there is worse than no saw; it will shake yuh to death. But yer a Hoedag already and I've heard nothin' bad about yuh; we'll see what we got in th' crummy."
    Slim outfits Steffi and they walk, slide, and skid for half an hour through jungle into the bottom of the unit. Steffi falls, head over heels, twice, scattering tools and sandwiches in the brush. Slim shakes his head again.
    Thinning is done from the bottom of the mountain up. A tiny creek is trickling past through a thicket of salmonberry. Slim trains Steffi as best he can. The work is more complicated than she'd thought.
    "Work sidehill," Slim is saying. "Meet somebody, bump up fourteen feet, work back, repeat." He draws the diagram in the dirt at their feet, then stands up and points.
    "See, right here is a good tree. S'Doug fir, eight foot tall, an' all 'round it is some ocean spray, alders, bracken. No need to cut bracken, or grasses 'n forbs, but if it's woody 'n within fourteen foot o' yer good tree, cut it off within six inches of th' ground. Take out smaller or poorly shaped Doug firs or hemlocks or cedar, and anything broadleaf -- alder, maple, 'shittim,' willow, cherry, viney maple, ocean spray, thimbleberry, salmonberry. Y'cn leave these Oregon grapes alone. Sword ferns, huckleberries, they're okay. Yuh don't have a good fir, pick a hemlock or a cedar. Yuh don't have any conifer, skip ahead to yer next good tree. You get into old-growth alder an' there's any conifer in th' understory, I'll show yuh how t'ring th' alders."
    Slim puts in his earplugs, holds his gray and red saw by the wraparound handle, yanks once at the cord with his other gloved hand, and gives a demonstration. In seconds, things are falling toward the creek one after another, as he walks along.
    Steffi kneels atop her saw housing, sets the choke, yanks about fifteen times, and eventually cranks up and slashes at her surroundings for a few minutes. There's a tap on her shoulder.
    "Yer way too dull an' runnin' too rich. Siddown a minnit."
    For what seems like hours, Slim files away at each tooth on Steffi's saw bar, then files at the rakers, which she hadn't even realized had a function, explaining as he goes.
    "Shine each tooth evenly, an' always file to the bevel. Y'wanna smooth edge here an' a minimum of resin buildup. Use th' same number of strokes on each tooth or it will cut on a curve. All our wood here, 'cept for madrone, is soft, so take your rakers down like this t' throw a bigger chip. 'K? Now yer chain's too loose, yer gonna throw it. Yer scrench at this end will loosen these two half-inch nuts, then yer tighten th' screw here; not overtight. See that daylight when I pull on it? 'N now yer carburetor, take yer scrench an' take both of these screws back t' zero, then this one out one turn, 'n this one a turn an-a-half."
    Steffi's head hurts. Might as well be studying calculus. But when she cranks the saw again, it starts right up. And she can't believe how fast the chain goes through the little alders. Saplings bounce off her hard hat, slide down her shoulders, and roll downhill behind her like the wake behind a boat. it would be fun if it weren't so hard.
    The buzzing saw chain is out of her sight half the time and the saw bucks around among the smallwood as she imagines a bronco might buck. This is not at all like firewooding. No wonder Slim talked so much about knowing where my legs are at all times.
    Steffi does not remember ever having worked this hard. When her first tank of gas runs out, she falls over on her back in the slash, dizzy, her eyes full of salt. Her arms are covered with scratches even beneath her heavy hickory shirt. When she crosses her eyes, she can see blood drying at the end of her nose.
    She drags out a red bandanna and wipes her face. A hummingbird appears from nowhere and hovers for a long moment not six inches above Steffi's eyes; it's checking out the bandanna. There are saw noises everywhere but here; mostly upslope somewhere. She's falling behind; better gas up and go.
    After her four tanks of gas have run out, it takes Steffi a long time, say about fifty years, to make it back to the landing. The jackstrawed slash left behind by the guys easily defeats her efforts to gain altitude.
    When she arrives at the landing, the others are having a heated discussion. Steffi feels hostility in the air. The men, all but Slim, climb into their crummy as she starts unloading her gear into Little Bird's bucket.
    Slim comes over.
    "There's been a, uh, a crew meetin' an' th' guys are feelin' like you will cost us too much money. They're hopin' you'll wait for tree plantin' to start up again."
    Steffi feels tears welling up behind her safety glasses. "It's -- well, I need money too. Maybe I could work at half rate till I get the hang of it?"
    "I like it that you thought of that, but it wouldn't be legal really." He thinks a minute.
    "Tell ya what. I'll bring it up to th' others that we'll  put yuh on yer own subcontract, right across th'draw. Yuh do that piece, y'get paid for that piece. It probably won't make yuh minimum wage but it'd be something. I'll check on yuh once a day."
    "Wow. Thanks, Slim."
    "It's about fifteen acres, I'll ask the fazoos t' tell us exactly. You'll need to be done by th' first of October, an' if ya meet inspection, you'll make, after fifteen percent to Central, about six hundred dollars."
    That seems like a lot to Steffi. She's almost grateful. But then Slim's talking again.
    "But y'gotta dump that McYellow. No shocks, no chain brake, bad piston ring. So half of yer six, we'll get Central to front it to ya an ya go buy a Stihl."
    "Steel?"
    "Stihl. German saw. Model oh-thirty-one, sixteen inch bar."
    So, for her summer's work, Steffi's going to make three hundred dollars, less saw, sawgas, oil, and tools. If she doesn't shorten a leg.
    Oh, well.
    With any luck, she'll make it through to planting season a little stronger and wiser.
    Maybe.



(To be continued)